SetÂting aside just one day for the LouÂvre is a clasÂsic first-time Paris visÂiÂtor’s misÂtake. The place is simÂply too big to comÂpreÂhend on one visÂit, or indeed on ten visÂits. To grow so vast has takÂen eight cenÂturies, a process explained in under three minÂutes by the offiÂcial video aniÂmatÂed above. First conÂstructÂed around the turn of the thirÂteenth cenÂtuÂry as a defenÂsive fortress, it was conÂvertÂed into a royÂal resÂiÂdence a cenÂtuÂry and a half latÂer. It gained its first modÂern wing in 1559, under HenÂri II; latÂer, his widÂow CatherÂine de’ Medici comÂmisÂsioned the TuiÂleries palace and garÂdens, which HenÂri IV had joined up to the LouÂvre with the Grande Galerie in 1610.
In the sevÂenÂteen-tens, Louis XVI comÂpletÂed the Cour CarÂrée, the LouÂvre’s main courtÂyard, before decampÂing to VerÂsailles. It was only durÂing the French RevÂoÂluÂtion, toward the end of that cenÂtuÂry, that the NationÂal AssemÂbly declared it a museÂum.
The project of unitÂing it into an archiÂtecÂturÂal whole conÂtinÂued under Napoleon I and III, the latÂter of whom finalÂly comÂpletÂed it (and in the process douÂbled its size). The TuiÂleries Palace was torched durÂing the unpleasÂantÂness over the Paris ComÂmune, but the rest of the LouÂvre surÂvived. Since then, its most notable alterÂation has been the addiÂtion of I. M. Pei’s glass pyraÂmid in 1989.
The pyraÂmid may still have an air of conÂtroÂverÂsy these three and a half decades latÂer, but you can hardÂly deny that it at least improves upon the Cour CarÂrée’s years as a parkÂing lot. It stands, in any case, as just one of the countÂless feaÂtures that make the LouÂvre an archiÂtecÂturÂal palimpsest of French hisÂtoÂry pracÂtiÂcalÂly as comÂpelling as the colÂlecÂtion of art it conÂtains. (FranÂcophÂoÂnes can learn much more about it from the longer-form docÂuÂmenÂtaries postÂed by Des Racines et des Ailes and Notre HisÂtoire.) And how did I approach this most famous of all French instiÂtuÂtions on my own first trip to Paris, you ask? By not going at all. On my next trip to Paris, howÂevÂer, I plan to go nowhere else.
RelatÂed conÂtent:
The Louvre’s Entire ColÂlecÂtion Goes Online: View and DownÂload 480,00 Works of Art
A 3D AniÂmatÂed HisÂtoÂry of Paris: Take a VisuÂal JourÂney from Ancient Times to 1900
How France Hid the Mona Lisa & OthÂer LouÂvre MasÂterÂpieces DurÂing World War II
Take ImmerÂsive VirÂtuÂal Tours of the World’s Great MuseÂums: The LouÂvre, HerÂmitage, Van Gogh MuseÂum & Much More
JapanÂese GuidÂed Tours of the LouÂvre, VerÂsailles, the Marais & OthÂer Famous French Places (EngÂlish SubÂtiÂtles IncludÂed)
Based in Seoul, ColÂin Marshall writes and broadÂcasts on cities, lanÂguage, and culÂture. His projects include the SubÂstack newsletÂter Books on Cities and the book The StateÂless City: a Walk through 21st-CenÂtuÂry Los AngeÂles. FolÂlow him on the social netÂwork forÂmerÂly known as TwitÂter at @colinmarshall.