Do you feel a sense of loyalty to your favorite mayonnaise? You’re not alone. Some of us grew up spreading the same brand of mayo on every ham and cheese sandwich. Others aligned themselves with their home state’s favorite mayo, like Duke’s in South Carolina or Blue Plate in New Orleans. Hardcore fans might even own a T-shirt or hat that announces their preferred brand to the world. The mayo mania runs deep — and so does the mayo rivalry.
We asked 15 F&W Best New Chefs for their favorite mayo, and it turns out they’re just as divided as the rest of the world. Here are the three brands that came up the most, plus some lesser-known mayos you should consider keeping in your fridge.
The 3 best mayos, according to chefs
Duke’s Mayonnaise
Food & Wine / Duke’s Mayonnaise
Founded in Greenville, South Carolina, this cult-favorite mayo is known for using egg yolks only (instead of yolks and whites) and having a “twang” — an extra hit of acidity from distilled and apple cider vinegar. For Southern chefs, Duke’s is majorly nostalgic.
“Being from North Carolina, Duke’s just takes me back,” says 2015 F&W Best New Chef Bryce Shuman. Same goes for 2013 F&W Best New Chef Michael Hudman and 2019 F&W Best New Chef Bryan Furman, who grew up eating Duke’s in Memphis, Tennessee, and Cassatt, South Carolina, respectively.
Edgar Rico
“We adore [Duke’s] for its flavor profile, the richness, and the subtle acidity from the vinegar, which strikes the perfect balance.”
— Edgar Rico
Beyond the sentimental attachment, many chefs simply love Duke’s for its balanced, unsweetened flavor. “Duke’s is hands down the best mayonnaise, in my opinion,” says 2015 F&W Best New Chef Katie Button. “The biggest differentiator is that it doesn’t have any sugar,” she says. “This is important to me because I think potato salad, pimento cheese, pasta salad, and sandwiches should sit firmly in the savory category.”
For every aioli at Nixta Taqueria in Austin, 2023 F&W Best New Chef Edgar Rico exclusively uses Duke’s. “We adore it for its flavor profile, the richness, and the subtle acidity from the vinegar, which strikes the perfect balance.”
Kewpie
Food & Wine / Kewpie
“Kewpie is where it’s at,” says 2013 F&W Best New Chef Jason Vincent.
This Japanese mayo is the only mass-produced brand that uses MSG, an umami-enhancing ingredient. And, like Duke’s, it’s made with egg yolks only, making it extra creamy (rather than gelatinous). Even though Duke’s has a permanent place in Bryce Shuman’s heart, he calls Kewpie the “Instant Pot” of mayonnaises. “It’s multifunctional, but offers moments of refinement to those who know how to use it,” he says.
Matt Kammerer
“[Kewpie] is slightly sweet, full of umami, and goes well with everything.”
— Matt Kammerer
2019 F&W Best New Chef Matt Kammerer appreciates the versatility of Kewpie as well. “It’s slightly sweet, full of umami, and goes well with everything.”
2001 F&W Best New Chef Wylie Dufresne buys Kewpie in bulk — the 3.78-liter tub is a slightly different recipe than the squeeze bottle, but he loves it nonetheless. “It has both vinegar and lemon juice as well as a little sugar, so there’s a nice tangy-sweet balance,” he says. “It also has a great texture and holds up to heat pretty well.” Since the formula doesn’t contain MSG, he adds it himself.
Hellmann’s Real Mayonnaise
Food & Wine / Hellmann’s
While Jason Vincent usually reaches for Kewpie, he says that only one mayonnaise belongs on turkey sandwiches. “Hellmann’s all the way.”
Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton
“[Hellmann’s] is the mayo that I’d choose to dip an artichoke leaf in. I can’t think of a better endorsement than a dish that puts your mayo front and center like a boiled artichoke does.”
— Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton
This classic mayonnaise (called Best Foods in the West Coast) is mild, slightly sweet, and brightened with lemon. “Mayonnaise is such a personal thing, and for me, my preference lies in the one I grew up eating,” says 2014 F&W Best New Chef Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton, who always keeps Hellmann’s in her fridge. “It’s the mayo that I’d choose to dip an artichoke leaf in. I can’t think of a better endorsement than a dish that puts your mayo front and center like a boiled artichoke does.”
Having lived in the South for decades, 2002 F&W Best New Chef Hugh Acheson feels a certain pressure to declare Duke’s his preferred mayo. But in his true heart of hearts, Hellmann’s has always been his favorite. “I say this with apprehension that someone will now egg my apartment, but with the price of eggs being prohibitive, I think that is not likely.”
3 more chef-favorite mayos
While these mayos might not be as popular as the “Big Three,” they hold a special place in a few Best New Chefs’ hearts.
McCormick Mayonesa
Made with lime, this Mexican-produced mayonnaise has a complex flavor that’s great for cooking. “It has the same kind of taste that Kewpie has, but with a punch of acid,” says 2022 F&W Best New Chef Ana Castro.
Lesieur Mayonnaise
For a French chef like 1998 F&W Best New Chef Laurent Tourendel, nothing compares to this French mayonnaise. “It reminds me of when I was young, growing up in France,” he says. “It has a very mustardy flavor, almost like a [homemade] mayonnaise.
Blue Plate
“Blue Plate is my favorite mayonnaise because it’s creamy with a little tang in the end,” says 1994 F&W Best New Chef Greg Sonnier. “It’s also the first mayonnaise that was invented in Gretna, Louisiana and commercially sold.” And as Louisiana-based chef, Sonnier prefers to buy local.